Bâtonnage
The practice of stirring the lees (dead yeast cells) back into suspension during barrel or tank ageing to increase a wine's body, texture, and complexity.
In depth
After fermentation in barrel, dead yeast cells (lees) settle to the bottom. Left undisturbed, autolysis is slow and gentle. Bâtonnage (from the French "bâton" — stick) involves periodically stirring the lees back into the wine using a long stick, paddle, or other device. This keeps the lees in suspension and increases their contact with the wine, accelerating the release of mannoproteins and other autolysis compounds.
The result is: increased body and creaminess (from mannoproteins); more complex, richer flavour; greater stability (mannoproteins help protect against tartrate crystallisation and protein instability); and — if oak is also used — better integration of oak flavours.
Bâtonnage is most associated with white Burgundy (Chardonnay barrel-fermented and aged on lees with frequent stirring — Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet). It is also used for some other premium whites fermented in barrel.
Frequency ranges from weekly to monthly. More frequent stirring produces more pronounced lees character; less frequent produces a subtler effect. Some winemakers argue that excessive bâtonnage can mask a wine's primary fruit character or introduce reductive notes if oxygen is depleted.
Related exam topics
Frequently asked questions
- What is the purpose of bâtonnage in white Burgundy?
- Bâtonnage in white Burgundy serves two main purposes: it increases the wine's body and creaminess by keeping lees in contact with the wine (accelerating autolysis), and it helps integrate and soften any oak influence from the barrel. The technique is fundamental to the rich, textured, complex style of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet.
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